Vacationing by Sailboat

Is it a staycation if you stay in your home as you travel out of town?

Living on a boat makes vacations easy and cheap. Vacationing on a SAILboat make vacations really slow.

The Chesapeake Bay is the watershed in which I have lived most of my life. As a kid my parents took us to the bay in the summers, so I am familiar with stinging nettles and biting flies. I also know a little bit about the small towns in and around the bay having vacationed in them with my family and friends. So when Kurt gave me the itinerary for this trip, I thought I’d know it all and was looking forward to some chill sailing time.

This slow down vacation opened my eyes to the Chesapeake. This bay has something going on! All well educated historians would agree that our great nation begins right here, unless you are from indigenous, once enslaved or New England ancestry. I get that, but humor me for a bit. Captain John Smith spent a great deal of time looking for resources and treasures right here. Once settlements became established, the Chesapeake was the transportation hub for exports of tobacco, THE cash crop until just recently. So as we traveled by water and saw these towns from the water, I was able to imagine what the early Europeans saw. The wildlife is gorgeous and in many places well preserved. Suburban development hasn't reached this far south despite the huge houses in Urbanna. The weather was really hot and humid and the water filled with nasty stinging nettles. But the breeze either created by our motor moving us through water, or storms traveling about the bay helped to keep life bearable. And now we are well practiced with staying just long enough in air-conditioned businesses before they get irritated with our loitering. Capt. Smith didn’t have that advantage and he loved it here.

The map does not represent what we did. After Urbanna we went to Reedville and the next day went from Reedville to home.

We motored for six hours and sailed for two to visit Linda and Jeff, my JMU friends, in Callao on the Potomac. The next days were much of the same as we slowly motorsailed to the towns of Kilmarnock, Urbanna and Reedville, all on the Rappahannock. Due to an unknown scheduling conflict with the governor of Virginia, we were unable to board the ferry to Tangier Island. That gave us an extra day in Reedville where live some very proud townsfolk. This area is known as the Northern Neck and by car is an economically depressed and dreadfully boring region of my beloved Virginia. I always preferred the Eastern Shore of Maryland as its towns are more defined and there’s more to do there. But there was some really good stuff here and I’d like to poke around some more by car soon. Enjoy!

Day 1 - Off to Linda and Jeff's!

The before selfie

The dinghy at sea!

The dinghy takes on water due to an open daggerboard slot.

Kurt bails out his boat and stops the leak.

With all boats afloat, we motorsail slowly from the Patuxent to the Potomac.

...and steer by foot.

While staying just out of the main channel.

Containers!

Day 2:

After a great night catching up with the St. Georges, we are delivered back to the Elizabeth and head out to the Rappahanock.

If you find yourself right here, just holler. Linda and Jeff love to spoil sailers rotten!

Thank you, Linda!

There goes the last fast motor we'll encounter the entire trip.

Then we sail....

Kind of looks like a pirate ship during humid hallucinations. Seriously.

Around Point No Point lighthouse.

You can't see them, but there is one osprey on top of each of the pound net posts. Look up "pound nets". 

and we sail

Into a small creek near Kilmarnock.
If I had known this was the only spot with no nettles, I definitely would have jumped in for a swim.

Day 3: Off to Urbanna

Heading into the river and under the bridge.

Urbanna is a very cute town. Huge waterfront houses, fancy boutiques and even a paleo restaurant!
Just don't go on a Tuesday, nothing's open. Saved us some good money!

We rowed back in time to be safe from the thunderstorm and enjoy the rainbows and sunset!

Day...all the rest. 

I lost track. It was hot and slow and it really didn't matter what day it was.

Essentials: GPS, water, cheez-its, lines (rope), binoculars.
Patience, Kindles, books, patience.

REEDVILLE! Center of menhaden fish oil processing.
Be sure to check out the museum with really great docents
and all the information you could ever want about all the industry on the bay.

 Since we couldn't take the ferry, we ended up spending the entire hot summer day here. This garden is behind the church next to the museum. Kurt was thrilled with native plants and the demonstration proved that vegetation in waterfront properties is wise!

We did hang at the town's gazebo and waited patiently until Tommy's Restaurant opened at five. Thursdays are the first day they are open for the week. Northern Neck apparently gets all their business on the weekends. ***Order off the specials menu***

 

LAST DAY!

The engine compartment open in the morning.
Serious overheating just as we headed out in the morning.

Kurt in the engine compartment searching for the source of the engine overheating.
Thank goodness Kurt is skinny and knows everything.
'Twas a jellyfish in the intake blocking water from cooling the engine. Grrr. 

Pilot boats hanging off the back.

The two boats take one net around schools of menhaden.
They are then uploaded into the big boat.
Who knew!?

You can't see them, but on the front of the coal barge is a line of seagulls catching a ride.
They are only on the front pile to the right. "Mine. Mine. Mine."

It took us the entire day to return from Reedville to Solomons. I must admit that I did feel a little "homeful" upon return. It was a mix between happy to be back from travel and grateful for having the slow time to wander and discover. Mix this with complete and utter surrender to the fact that I still won't have a real bathroom or unlimited wifi. Comforts are really simple these days. I might be that much closer to a house after this.

There is no after selfie. Not sure why we didn't think of that.

Home sweet home.
We are the ones with the redneck silver awning over the bow.

Postscript: 

We returned to a week of temperatures in the high 90's with really high Mid-Atlantic humidity. As we were heading into Solomons, Kurt suggested we maybe go ahead and get that AC unit that I mentioned this time last year when I was just a weekend warrior. I suggested that might be a good idea. So friends, the Elizabeth is climate controlled, as much as she is able!

Lowes has wifi for easy price comparisons

They call it an air conditioner